Madras - A Kaleidoscope of Moods
Madras is the centre of the Hindu tradition of
Bharata Natyam (classical dancing) the art of temple
sculpture also comes from this part of the country,
and gives expression to both the devoutness and the
artistic skills of the Tamil people. Madras is the
home of the ancient Dravidian civilisation, one of
the oldest articulate cultures in the world. It is a
city where the landscape of the past lives easily
with more recent history. This busy, efficient
metropolis is a good centre to plan a journey over
South India. Make use of the international and
domestic airport and the massive network of trains
and buses. The friendliness, sincerity and
colourfulness of the people can slowly be absorbed
while taking a stroll over the sandy stretch of
beach known as the Marina, or visiting Fort St.
George, built by the British East India Company. So
many of the street names reflect the city’s long
association with other cultures; China Bazar Road,
Armenian Street, Portuguese Church Street for
instance. In 78 AD, the Apostle St Thomas was
martyred in the city, but the Christian faith now
finds graceful expression in the many churches,
particularly the San Thome Cathedral. View the whole
panorama from the Madras lighthouse, or experience
the culture from ground level in the temples, art
galleries or museums. Head off in any direction from
Madras – even east, across the Bay of Bengal by
boat or plane to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands;
a paradise archipelago, lush and forested, home of
some of the most exotic plant-life in the world. The
crystal clear waters shimmer with tropical fish, and
the islands are famous for their corals and
water-sports facilities. North of Madras is the
large state of Andhra Pradesh, rich in archeological
and architectural treasures. The capital, Hyderabad,
was once the seat of the fabled Nizams. The
Charminar is a national symbol, and the Salar Jung
Museum a rich repository of the Raj.
A Myriad of Temples
The devout Dravidian people of the south live and
breathe their ancient religion. Nothing, however,
can really prepare a visitor for the temples, where
images of the quiet bustle of the vast halls, the
huge gopurams completely covered by coloured
sculptures of gods and goddesses, the sight of bare
feet walking across cool slabs, the heady smell of
incense and the chime of the temple bell rung by
priests and the faithful leave entrancing
impressions. Rustic carts drawn by oxen with their
brightly coloured painted horns, smiling villagers
harvesting the hay at the side of the road - these
will be some of the memorable features of the short
journey from Madras to the famous temple town of
Mahabalipuram. A swim off the glorious beach will
refresh you after absorbing the wonders of the
romantic shore temples and of Arjuna’s Penance,
the huge rock carvings of animals and gods, There
are so many impressive temple towns in South India -
nearby Kanchipuram with its spectacular gopurams,
’ visible from miles away, or other magical
sounding places - Chidambaram, Tanjore,
Tiruchirapalli, and, most of all, the pilgrim centre
of Madurai - one of the oldest cities in Southern
India - with its dramatic and lively Meenakshi
temple, dedicated to the fish-eyed goddess.
Alternatively, for a different style of relaxation,
visit the attractive French-style coastal town of
Pondicherry, south of Madras. In the neighbouring
state of Karnataka lie the stone-carved temples of
Belur and Halebid. Relive the exciting era of the
Hoysalas, who flourished around the 12th century, by
examining the endless stories which the sculptural
detail portrays the war, the hunt, the animals, the
dancing girls and, of course the gods. Situated on
top of a hill in Sravanabelagola is the massive
statue of Lord Bahubali, dwarfing the landscape.
Lose yourself in the strange and beautiful ruins at
Hampi. Visit Bangalore, the state capital, for
another, different taste of Indian urban life; the
city is affluent, bustling and vibrant and
-splendidly adorned with trees, parks and gardens.
It is also the most important centre of India’s
’nonsmoke’ industries, including aerospace,
machine-tools and electronics. Further delights are
waiting in the gracious sandalwood city of Mysore,
where it is possible to stay in the one-time home of
an ex-Maharajah, now the Lalitha Mahal Hotel of
gleaming white beauty. Incense is manufactured in
the city, and the sweet and fragrant smells of
jasmine and rose and musk will linger in the air and
in the memory.
The Warm Beauty
Kerala - land of surf, spice and magic, an
ancient crossroads of cultures...Chinese fishing
nets drawn up on the golden sand, Jewish synagogues,
Portuguese forts, Dutch and Syrian churches, and of
course beautiful Indian temples and palaces...backed
by mountains, fringed with surf, rich in spice
plantations and coconut palms, relaxed and tranquil
under the warm tropical sun. Laze gloriously on the
unspoiled and beautiful coconut beaches of Kovalam,
India’s finest beach resort; or visit Cochin, with
its beautiful waterfront, or Trivandrum, with the
Padmanabhaswamy Temple, the
former rulers’ place of workshop; both towns
are also memorable for their churches and museums.
While in the area, move into the hinterland and hear
the trumpeting of an elephant and the chatter of
monkeys running wild in the green and watery Periyar
Game Sanctuary. Inhale the pure fresh air from the
height of the Nilgiri hills while absorbing the
spectacular views in Ootacamund or Kodaikanal,
perhaps followed by a gentle trip on the backwaters
between Aleppey and Quilon, watching the villagers
at work in the lush green paddy fields.
Joyous Dance of the South
A visit to the south may well coincide with one
of the many magnificent festivals; if not, don’t
worry, as there will usually be a celebration of
some sort in every lively village here. The Bharata
Natyam dance originated in the south; the rhythm of
the music, the colours of the costumes and the grace
of every stylised movement will spellbind the
onlooker. Experience the beauty and elegance of the
Kathakali mask dance, which depicts tales of the
gods, heroes, demons and fabulous beasts of Indian
legend, or the grace of Kalaipattu, the martial art
of Kerala. Join the happy and smiling throng of
revellers as fireworks explode into the night sky,
brightly coloured flowers are scattered in the air,
gloriously bedecked elephants and cows join the
procession in the street, everyone dancing to the
beat of the tabla sights and sounds all entwined
with the haunting rhythm of ancient Sanskrit Mantras
(chanting).
India awaits you
Kanya Kumari (Cape Comorin) in Tamil Nadu,
India’s Lands End, washed by three seas, where at
the time of the full moon it is possible to watch
the sun set and the moon rise at the same time, a
popular pilgrimage town, the end of the railway line
... from here to Jammu and Kashmir is over 3,300
kilometers, and the railway journey will take three
days, passing through the whole staggering diversity
of India – the great plains, towering mountains
and rich forests, the serene temple towns and lively
resorts, thriving cities, tranquil hill stations and
tiny villages, the people, the history, the
wildlife, the cultures... such a wealth of beauty
and mystery and laughter in this graceful and gentle
land. An experience both indescribable and
unforgettable as only India can be. She is waiting
for you, and has been for 5,000 years. All you have
to do is arrive; the wonder of India - only nine
hours away.